Why Deck Stains Peel

Staining your deck is no simple task, and the frustration and disappointment that occur when the project comes out poorly can be overwhelming. One of the more common failures that you can experience is that the stain, whether semi-transparent or solid color, begins to peel away. To avoid the problem, you first have to understand the cause; let’s begin there.

What causes deck stains to peel?

Deck stains will generally peel for two basic reasons: over application and poor adhesion.

Over Application

This is simple — too much stain on the surface of the wood. With deck stains, specifically with semi-transparent finishes, more is not better. You only want to apply as much product as the wood can easily absorb. Why? Because wood absorbs moisture from rain and snow, and when the sun comes out and dries the wood out, the moisture vapor from the wood needs to be able to pass through the stain and escape. If there is too much stain, it restricts the moisture from evaporating away, so peeling can occur. Often times this problem will be most evident in the spring time when the deck begins to dry out after all of the winter moisture.

Poor adhesion

This is even simpler. The stain has not adhered sufficiently to the wood. We will cover several factors that contribute to poor adhesion in detail, but if the stain does not properly stick to the wood, it will almost always peel.

The Problem is Becoming More Common

Peeling problems are becoming more common, mostly due to air quality regulations. As restrictions have increased regarding VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) emissions, manufacturers have switched from solvent-based stains to water-based stains or have changed the formulas on their solvent-based products to become compliant. In both cases, one of the results is a much greater propensity for the stain to peel.

The solution? Just follow a few basic rules.

Allow New Wood to Weather

All wood benefits from weathering prior to staining. Weathering allows Mother Nature to dry the moisture out of the wood to make it more absorbent. Weathering also starts the process of naturally breaking down the surface fiber of the wood again, making the wood more absorbent. The more absorbent that you can make the wood, the more stain the wood is going to absorb. Your project will last longer and be less likely to peel.

Clean and Brighten All Wood Prior to Staining

Cleaning and brightening the wood has a lot more value than simply making the wood look nice. Each step of the cleaning process opens the pores of the wood more to make the wood more absorbent. Power washing alone will not improve the porosity of the wood, so don’t skip this step. Use the cleaners and the brighteners every time you stain.

More is Not Better

This is one of the most important principles to understand when staining a deck. Applying more stain is not better — it is worse. If you apply more stain, the stain is more likely build up on the surface of the wood and form a film. When a film is formed, the breathability of the wood is decreased, increasing the likelihood of peeling. Over-applying the stain will initially look great, as the wood will take on an almost “furniture” type look. Don’t be fooled; it will eventually peel and the project will end up looking terrible. Apply only as much stain as the wood can easily absorb, no more.

Stay Out of Direct Sunlight

Avoid applying stain in direct sunlight or in the heat of the day. This one is really easy to understand. The hotter the surface of the wood, the more quickly the stain will dry. If it dries too quickly, then it simply won’t have time to penetrate into the wood, leaving it on the surface to form a film and, you guessed it, eventually peel. Apply the stain in the shade. Do your project in the morning or late in the day, but stay out of the hot sun or you’re likely to end up with a peeling problem.

Always Use a Brush

Always use a brush when applying any stains — they make a huge difference in your results. As the fibers of the brush work back and forth across the surface of the wood, they break down the surface tension and help to force the stain deep in to the fibers of the wood. Even if you spray or roll your deck, while the stain is still wet, always work the material in to the wood by brushing. For a tip on how to cut your brush time down dramatically and speed up the staining process, view this short video:

Don’t Go Cheap. Buy a premium wood stain

What’s inside of the can will make all of the difference in the world. The chemicals that promote the various performance characteristics of the stain, e.g. adhesion, penetration, mildew resistance, UV resistance, etc., all cost money, and some of them are very expensive. The easiest way to cut the cost of the product is reduce the amounts of these performance additives in the can, but you can’t do that without sacrificing durability. So don’t be fooled, if you want a stain that lasts, stay away from cheap wood stains!

That’s it. If you have had a peeling problem on your deck in the past, I’ll  bet that something in this article hit pretty close to home. Adhere to the few simple guidelines that I’ve outlined, and your results in the future should be significantly better.


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  1. Ann Prucinsky says:

    My deck has peeled every year. The painter said that it’s because the wood is drawing too much moisture from the ground underneath. The upright posts etc do not peel, just the flat boards. Is there anything we can do about this? Used high quality stain and not put on heavy but first time he put 2 coats on the same day. That was 3 years ago, then another coat the next year.

    • woodstainadmin says:

      Ann, how close is your deck to the ground? If there’s not enough clearance between the ground and the deck, this could trap moisture underneath and create peeling problems.

    • Ken Fontenot says:

      I suggest you put a vapor barrier , go to your nearest store and purchase a heavy gauge of black plastic sheeting and put it under your deck you can secure it with special pins for this sheeting and this will protect or help control some of the moisture that sits under your deck.

  2. Miles says:

    What is the best way to remove the remaining stain that is partially peeling?

    • woodstainadmin says:

      Miles, if it’s a clear, or semi-transparent stain, then use DEFY Stain Stripper, then rinse with a pressure washer. If it’s a solid stain, then you may need to either use paint stripper or a sander.

      • marty says:

        My situation: Bought a home. Restaining a deck with two obviously different existing and unknown products via replaced boards at a health sensitive home (wife w/extreme sensitivity) so no stripper, chems.
        Random flaking onboardr, dark stained boards. Solid condition amber stain on replacement boards.
        Question: Is it possible to just stain over the whole mess with a solid bodied stain?

        • defyadmin says:

          Marty, yes, using a solid color stain could work in your situation. Keep in mind that once you start using a solid stain, it’s difficult to go back to a semi-transparent or clear. Solids are very difficult to remove, only paint stripper or sanding will remove them. As long as you’re ok with permanently having your deck a solid color, then that might be your best option. One thing to keep in mind, as solid color stains weather, they will typically peel on horizontal surfaces.

    • Johnny says:

      Power wash then strpper….then power wash again

    • Karen Allen says:

      What kind of bristles are in that brush for staining in that short video?

  3. Jeanne says:

    Interesting video about staining with a car wash brush. It looks like a lot of product is being put on with this method. This amount is NOT considered over application? What about railings? Thank you.

    • defyadmin says:

      Jeanne, the brush being used in the video is nice because it allows you to cover a lot of area in a small amount of time. It also helps to force the stain into the wood pores by breaking the surface tension…something that’s difficult to do when just using a sprayer to apply the stain. If too much is applied in an area, it’s easy to spread it out across other boards with this brush, plus it saves your back and knees! For railings, you could use this brush, but we typically use a standard 2 1/2″ or 3″ paint brush.

      • AJ says:

        Where can I get this exact brush? Or what’s the name of the manufacturer of the brush used in this video. I will be doing this very soon. I’m just waiting for my new wood to weather now. And thanks for this great write-up.

      • AJ says:

        Oh, never mind. You guys sell this brush LOL! I’ll be ordering this soon. Sorry, but I already have my stain.

        • Jim Sanderson says:

          Can you paint Behr deck over paint right over Behr waterproofing wood stain without sanding or stripping.

          • defyadmin says:

            Jim, Behr deckover is meant as a last resort for decks that are almost ready for replacement. Check their instructions to be sure, but my guess is you don’t need to sand or strip.

  4. Scott jacobson says:

    I refinished my deck last spring. In preparation I stripped, completely sanded and then brightened the wood. Put two coats of Defy Extreme Semi Trans stain on per instructions. Now I notice there are a number of spots that appear to be peeling or wearing off. What can I do about that? What may be causing it?

    How do you recommend I clean the deck after the winter to remove the dirt, dust, etc that has accumulated over the winter?

    I’m located in Salt Lake City, UT

    • defyadmin says:

      Scott, just out of curiosity, why did you strip and sand it? Did the stain stripper not fully remove the previous stain? The reason I ask is if you sand the wood too smooth, it can make it harder for the stain to penetrate. If sanding is necessary, we usually recommend using a rough grit sandpaper. What type of wood do you have? Typically peeling is caused by over-application, or the stain not adhering to penetrating into the wood properly. If the peeling is severe, you’ll need to use DEFY Stain Stripper, followed by DEFY Wood Brightener. Otherwise, you can just use some Dawn dishwashing soap and water to clean it off. You can also call our customer service at (800) 860-6327 and talk to someone more in depth about your project.

      • Scott says:

        Yes there was still stain on the deck. It’s a 20 year old deck and I’ve only been in home for 5 years so also not sure what stains were on there. I know the last one was Behr. I stripped, pressure washed and sanded then brightened. Sanded with 80 grit. I’m also not sure on the wood thinking it’s redwood or pine.
        If I strip again doesn’t seem it will resolve any of the issue if it’s too smooth, etc. Frustrated that I’ve put so much effort into this, bought premium stain and got the worst results ever. I used Behr for years at my other home and would get 2 – 3 years out of it and then recoat. Lasted for 10 plus years with one sanding in between.

        • defyadmin says:

          Scott, call our customer service at (800) 860-6327. If you have any pictures of your project that may be helpful. They may be able to offer more specific advice once they see what’s going on.

  5. Robbi Boston says:

    Hi, our hardwood deck has a solid stain that is coming off so we will need to sand it (we are also slightly changing the color to a warmer tone and have to replace a board or two). My question is: do we still need to use the Brightener? If so, do we use it before or after we stain?

    • defyadmin says:

      Robbi, a couple of thoughts. First, make sure you totally get the solid stain off. Any areas where it still remains on the surface will cause adhesion problems for your new stain. Also, are you re-staining it with DEFY or another solid color stain? If you’re replacing boards, then you may see a color variance between the old boards and the new if you use a semi-transparent stain like DEFY. If you’re using another solid stain, then this won’t be an issue. Once you sand, using Wood Brightener will help, as it will help the stain penetrate better and absorb more uniformly across the surface of the wood. Apply the Wood Brightener, allow it to set for 5 minutes or so, then rinse it off with a garden hose. Allow the wood to dry out and then you can stain it.

  6. Stephanie says:

    My husband built a bridge and we stained it last fall, using a semi transparent stain. We don’t like the color and now want to change the stain to a solid stain. Are we able to power wash it and then restain it?
    Thank you!!

    • defyadmin says:

      Stephanie, use a stain stripper to remove the semi-transparent stain and then follow it with a wood brightener to neutralize the surface. After that, it’s ready to stain. Powerwashing alone may not be sufficient to get the wood back to it’s original state.

    • Barb Gimbel says:

      We purchased a cedar wood dock and I don’t think it has ever been stained. I assume we should first use a clean and brightener. Should we sand? Reading some of your postI am unsure if that is wise? Is the stain a sealer also? We also have treated steps installed last year, is there different process? One last thing, we have a third set of steps built in the ground (all the steps tietogether going to the dock) that are made of cedar and the are very red. The installer said they are not stained g at is the way the wood came. We want to stain everything a warm honey color. Thank you in advance. Barb Gimbel

      • defyadmin says:

        Barb, yes clean and brighten it first. The stain will also seal the wood. Clean and brighten the treated steps just the same as the cedar wood. Keep in mind that if you use a semi-transparent stain, it’s going to look different on the pressure treated wood than it is on the red cedar stairs, as the color of the wood will show somewhat show through the semi-transparent finish. The only way around this is to use a solid color stain which will totally hide the grain of the wood.

  7. Dan says:

    We are looking into using this product on a deck that had been stained 2 and 4 years ago with a semi-transparent oil-based stain.
    Once the deck is stripped of the old product and Defy Extreme is applied, how will subsequent applications look in the future? Will there be a build up of the pigment over time or will the deck have to be stripped each time a new application is applied?
    In other words, in a few years, can a light cleaning with a deck cleaner and pressure washer be all that is needed to refresh the look?

    • defyadmin says:

      Dan, you’re correct. Over time, the stain will darken a little as you apply additional coats. The way to combat this, is when you do maintenance coats, apply the Wood Brightener to lighten the wood.

  8. Deanna says:

    Hello, I have had so many problems with my deck paint peeling. I started with Restore Brand colored deck paint. It was very thick and looked nice for about a month and then started peeling off. I reapplied the following year and we built a cover over the deck. It is still peeling bad. I’m fed up and I know that once you put this type of paint it would be hard to go to just a sealer or stain. Please tell me what you think about outdoor carpet over the entire deck. We have a really high deck about 3 feet off the ground and the boards have adequate space between each one for air circulation. Since the deck is covered with metal roofing except steps, would outdoor carpet be a good choice to cover this ugly deck?

    • defyadmin says:

      Deanna, at this point outdoor carpet isn’t going to hurt anything. Unless you want to sand the deck down to bare wood or use a harsh paint stripper, you’re stuck with painting the deck.

  9. Gina Lagore says:

    Hi. I have a 20 year old, pressure treated pine deck that was originally in all day full sun. It now receives full sun for about 7 hours a day. I live outside Phila., PA. I have maintained it by cleaning it every year, and hand brushing on S/T oil based Cabot stain every 3rd year which amounts to approximately 6 coats of stain and it consistently looked fine each time for about 3 years. With a recent back injury, I am now getting estimates for the deck to be handled by a professional. I have been reading many different opinions as to whether or not, after all the appropriate prep work, another oil based S/T stain coat can be placed on top. One professional said he would use a Sherwin Williams oil based S/T stain right over the existing stain, a second told me that after the cumulative 6 coats of Cabot S/T oil based stain that I have been applying over the last 20 years that I now have a deck that is similar to a painted deck that is peeling and he wants to apply a Sherwin Williams solid stain water based product. Completely different opinions. Can anyone steer me in the right direction – and recommend the appropriate product that will require simply cleaning and recoating over the next 2-3 years? Thanks for your time.

    • defyadmin says:

      Gina, your second contractor was right, the 6 coats of stain will probably begin peeling if they haven’t already. At this point, we would recommend that you strip the deck with a wood stain stripper followed by a power washer. It may take 2 applications of stain stripper given the number of coats of stain you have on your deck. This should bring the wood back to it’s bare state and at that point our Extreme Wood Stain would work great on your pressure treated deck. You can give it a light cleaning every couple of years followed by a single maintenance coat.

  10. Michelle says:

    We have a mobile home that our college kids live in. The decks have not been treated in at least 4 years (when we bought it) and are gray and look totally bare. After a lot of research, I am leaning toward DEFY based on ratings and the water base, plus not many reviews of issues with peeling later. We planned to clean, pressure wash, and let dry overnight, then do the brightener early in the morning, followed by stain before it gets sunny and hot. We’ll do a sprayer and use your car wash brush tip to rub it in.
    Since this wood is very old and thirsty, do you have any specific advice?
    Do you think we’ll need two coats under the circumstances?
    Also, is there any need to seal if we use Extreme Wood Stain?
    Finally – as far as color, with the deck being totally gray, do we need to go a shade darker to have the browner tint show through?
    Thank you for your responses and clarifications to all these questions – it’s very helpful!

    • defyadmin says:

      Michelle, make sure you clean it with DEFY Wood Cleaner, as this will remove the graying. You can actually use DEFY Wood Brightener immediately after the cleaner. It’s ok to use it the next day as well. You’ll definitely want to apply 2 coats as the wood will probably need it. Extreme Wood Stain is a stain and a sealer, so no need to seal it with another product. If you use the Wood Cleaner and a power washer, that should bring the wood back to its natural, bare state and totally remove the graying, so you can use whichever color you like. We have samples available here if you want to see what the colors will look like on your deck.

  11. Tom says:

    Last fall I used a spray on deck cleaner (did not power wash) before applying a semi-transparent stain. Now there are several areas where the stain is peeling off. Apparently I did not do a good enough job of prepping the surface before staining. Would using a power washer be enough to remove all the loose stain? Or would I need to use some kind of stain remover over the entire thing first, +cleaner, +power wash?

    • defyadmin says:

      Tom, you need to use a stain stripper and a power washer. The stain stripper will loosen any remaining stain, and the power washer will then be able to remove it completely. After that, use a wood brightener to neutralize any remaining stain stripper and let it dry out. Then it’s ready to be stained.

  12. Ian Grant says:

    I built a new red cedar deck and stairs, last June. Let it weather for 2 months. Then sanded, cleaned and applied 2 coats Defy clear stain. As I wanted to retain the red cedar color.
    Now it has faded to white.
    Why the color fade? How to fix it?
    I purchased a 5 gallon pail of the clear, still have 3 gallons.

    • defyadmin says:

      Ian, contact our customer service at (800) 860-6327 and they can help you figure out what went wrong. Pictures may be helpful if you have them.

  13. Dominic says:

    Is there a website that evaluates all types of stains and application methods without promoting their own brand?

  14. Martha says:

    I’m glad I found this site! Hoping to get some advice. We just had a new PT wood deck built. I’m not sure if it was entirely dry before we had stained applied. I wanted dark walnut, a dark brown with no hint of red. The guy we hired bought Olympia (?) walnut, stain & sealer in one. (He didn’t get dark walnut) He put one coat on and it looked terrible. It was reddish (which I did not want) and very uneven. I think he applied it in full sun and it dried very quickly/unevenly. I asked him to hold off on the 2nd coat for now. I asked a professional painter referred by a friend and he said we should lightly sand the first coat, clean the dust then apply 2 or 3 coats of dark walnut oil based wood stain (not mixed with sealer), no sanding in between, wait 4 hours in between coats. Then let that dry completely for a day or two. He said cover the deck with a tarp so it doesn’t bake in the sun, then put a couple of coats of a clear polyurethane. He said the oil based stain will work better if we are unsure what the water content is in the wood. Is this a good plan? If so, what type of polyurethane should I use and how is the best way to apply that? If not, then what should we do? Thanks!

    • defyadmin says:

      Martha, you’ll need to check with the manufacturer of the oil based stain that he’s using as to what their instructions are. One thing to keep in mind, if you’re unsure about the water content of the wood, an oil based stain is definitely not something you would want. Oil and water do not mix, so unless the wood has totally dried out, you won’t want to use an oil. With that being said, there are hybrid stains that combine an alkyd (oil) resin in a water-based carrier. This type would be ok to use. The way you can easily tell is if the cleanup recommendations for an oil based stain are to use water (as opposed to mineral spirits). The other issue, is polyurethane is typically used on interior surfaces and works well, but it doesn’t always hold up on exterior applications. It sounds like your contractor wants to give your deck a furniture-like appearance, and with all those coats of stain and polyurethane, my concern is that you could see peeling as the deck weathers. The best rule of thumb is to only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. If the stain lays on the surface and forms a film, chances are it’s going to peel.

  15. Jim H says:

    defyadmin…I had a pro install a deck at my cabin in north WI using treated lumber. Its 6 feet above the ground. I was told to wait one year before using a nontransparent stain. One year later, it has peeled. Including the railings. The same happened to the front porch/deck of the cabin. But that is not like the back deck which is above our walkout basement. However, we installed cedar on the 64 foot long porch/deck the same year we did the back deck. I stained it with one coat of Behr transparent using a roller. It peeled within three months!!

    • defyadmin says:

      Jim, a couple of thoughts here…were both decks allowed to weather? Applying a stain to unweathered wood can frequently result in failure. We always recommend waiting a few months for the wood to dry out. The other issue is that solid color stains will frequently peel as they weather, especially on horizontal surfaces. It’s surprising that the Behr transparent peeled as transparent stains will usually just fade away as they weather, unless they’re over-applied. My guess is that using a roller didn’t help. Rollers can make it easy to accidentally over-apply stain. A better option is a car wash brush. A car wash brush breaks the surface tension and forces the stain into the pores of the wood, ensuring that the stain is absorbed and isn’t over applied.

  16. Jen says:

    Just this weekend we stained our deck. We used a deck cleaner and power washer to remove the old stain. We started off in the morning but the deck is in full sun for most of the day/evening. I got a semi transparent cinnamon color wanting to have a light oak look. It is orange looking and the stain looks very uneven and thick in places. We can’t afford to redo and some mentioned another coat but I worry it will still be uneven looking and too thick. Any suggestion to correct this?

    • defyadmin says:

      My guess is the old stain wasn’t completely removed which can certainly cause uneven applications. If the stain is too thick in certain places, this may be a sign of over application. We always use a car wash brush to force the stain into the wood pores and prevent puddling. You may consider this for your next application. A stain stripper and power washer would have completely removed the old stain and brought the wood back to its natural state. Your options are to allow the wood to weather for a few months and then apply a maintenance coat, or strip it with a stain stripper and start over. If you choose to allow the wood to weather for a few months, I would recommend applying a cleaner and brightener before staining to open the pores of the wood. The other issue is the color. You may be able to use a different color next time, but if it’s a semi-transparent, then the old color may still be visible underneath.

  17. Karen says:

    We have a new ipe deck that has weathered for 3 months. Two days ago, we used deck cleaner and brightener to prep, and we were planning to stain today, when we noticed that the company we ordered from shipped us the wrong stain product: Extreme Wood Stain instead of Stain for Hardwoods. We will now have to wait for them to ship us the correct product, and hopefully the weather will cooperate; we’ve had a lot of rain lately. If it takes a couple of weeks (or maybe up to a month?) for the right conditions again, can we go ahead and stain without having to re-do the prep?

    • defyadmin says:

      Karen, yes you should be fine. You may want to sweep off the deck before staining to remove any dirt or debris.

  18. Don Green says:

    I think screwed up my newly replaced deck. It’s cedar and we were looking to keep the natural color. I used Biowash Glaze remover on Friday afternoon/evening and then started in the next morning with Defy Wood Oil. It ended up being a very hot day and I had it in my head I had to have two coats on all flat surfaces. Now two days later, the deck looks great but is still real tacky to walk on. Will this go away and if not do you have any recommendations to eliminate the tackiness.? Also, any predictions regarding the finish ending up peeling by the end of summer or next year? Thanks

    • defyadmin says:

      Don, the deck will eventually dry out, but you may consider covering it if rain is in the near forecast. Tackiness can be caused by high humidity levels and made worse by applying too much stain. Only time will tell if the stain application holds up. In the meantime, watch out for rain and keep it covered until it dries completely.

  19. Michael Accarino says:

    The most important fact was that the stains of yesteryear before the government regulations were superior and no one has come up with anything to compare with them yet. You can do everything perfectly from start to finish on a new deck and they will peel way before the stated time that the manufacturer claims the stain will last. You can stain the underside of the deck. Put it on lightly as you recommend so it can allow water to evaporate. If you live in a part of the country that has a lot of snow and freezing temperatures, get your wallet out. Cause you will be sanding and staining and stripping etc. Every spring.

  20. Fleuri Perron says:

    We are just installing a new deck in Vancouver, BC – Canada and are using red cedar 5/4 x 6″ boards installed on 16″ centres.

    The deck is approximately 16″ off the ground. We have placed crushed rock on the ground under the deck area.

    The deck exposure is south.

    Appreciate your recommendations on the steps we should take to finish. We are leaning to a semi-transparent finish but haven’t settled on a colour as yet.

    Also appreciate your recommendations as to which products we can use that would be available here in Canada.

    Thank you,

    • defyadmin says:

      Fleuri, you’ll want to allow the deck to weather for 3-6 months before applying a stain. This allows the deck to weather and will help the stain to absorb better when it’s time to apply. Watch this quick 2 minute video to see the process – http://www.defywoodstain.com/videos/. Deck Stain for Hardwoods is going to be the best product for your red cedar deck. Although red cedar is not a hardwood, it is an oily wood that can be difficult for most stains to penetrate. Our Deck Stain for Hardwoods is formulated with smaller resins that are able to soak into hard or oily woods better than most. We don’t have any Canadian dealers at this time, but we do have a dealer that will ship to Canada. Contact the Sealer Store at (866) 856-3325 to order.

  21. monique p says:

    I’m so glad I found this website. I applied three coats of the redwood Behr wood stain and waterproofer. Now I know why it’s peeling. I really couldn’t figure it out because Behr product was so highly recommended.

  22. Ted Cooper says:

    Have 500 sq ft cedar deck in Oklahoma. 150 sq ft is covered and balance is in the sun. As one would expect, sun exposed area has faded and covered still looks okay after one year. Used Olympics’ Premium product with a semi transparent stain.

    What do I do to keep the sun exposed areas to fade less that the covered area?

    Frustrated deck owner!


    • defyadmin says:

      Ted, unfortunately there’s not much you can do. Areas subjected to sun exposure are always going to weather faster than protected areas. There’s not a product on the market that will cause both exposed and non-exposed areas to weather uniformly. You’ll need to apply maintenance coats to the sun exposed areas more frequently. To make this as easy as possible, choose a wood stain that is easy to maintain and doesn’t require stripping or sanding every time it needs to be recoated. I’m not sure what Olympic’s requirements are when it comes to maintenance coats, but if they’re too difficult, you may consider DEFY as the maintenance process is very easy for this product.

  23. Lyle Underwood says:

    I have a deck that has a solid color cabot stain on it. It is light blue in color. I have read some good reports on your stain. Do you sell a solid color stain? I am going to change the color of it to a cedar tone. I live in Indiana and have a dealer near me that sells your stain. Thank You

    • defyadmin says:

      Lyle, we only offer semi-transparent and clear stains. Our semi-transparent stain comes in 6 different colors including cedar tone. In order to switch from a solid to a semi-transparent, you’ll need to make sure you completely remove the solid by either sanding it, or using a stain stripper and pressure washer.

  24. Marielena says:

    So we had a new pressure treated wood pool deck built last April and waited a year to stain it. We bought a semi transparent stain which is a very light color (yellow cream). We love the color as it looks like the deck is bright and has a nice subtle appearance. Every time it rains there are parts that have just washed off completely! It’s bizarre… Some off of the spindles, the floor boards, the railings on the stairs. Was it applied to thick? What are our options for the Fall when we’ll have to redo it all?!?!
    Discouraged in Massachusetts!

  25. Kim says:

    I have been through so much crap with all these deck restore and stains and ends up lasting a year! When it claims to guarantee decks for 5 or 6 yrs. When it does not, they blaime it on you. Anyway, this time I purchased Behr Solid color waterproofing wood stain. Tested smaller section I was able to get to end of summer last year and peeled and wore by spring. Well, I had purchased 3 ~ 5 gallons to complete the deck, poles and rails (very large wrap around deck), So already purchasing it last yr, I got on it and just completed it, looks great right now but… I am 57 with a bad back and has taken me awhile down on my knees with paint brushes, I can not keep doing this and especially with the price it costs to keep redoing every year and nothing lives up to their guarantees. So my question is: this is 100% acrylic, is there a very thick clear coat I can put over it now to help keep it from peeling and wearing to help all this work last more than one season. I have already spent way too much going through this every year but will spend a bit more on a good thick top coat to help it last this time ~ please tell me what I can use. Hoping for a thick very hard top coat I can use and holds up over Behr solid stain, 100% acrylic. Please tell me there is something. ?

    • defyadmin says:

      Kim, sorry to hear you’ve had so much trouble with your deck. Your frustration is shared by many people. Unfortunately there isn’t a deck stain on the market that will last 5 or 6 years, in spite of what the warranties claim. 2-3 years is about what the best products on the market will give you. The big question is how easy is it to do maintenance coats. Some products require the wood to be stripped or sanded every time. In our case with DEFY products, you only have to apply a single maintenance coat every 2-3 years to maintain the finish. Unfortunately for your situation, a thick clear top coat may not be the best answer. This will only form a film on the surface of the wood, and typically when you put film-forming coatings on decks, they will peel. Solid stains in general can peel as they weather. A good quality semi-transparent stain will fade as it weathers, rather than peel. This makes it easy to maintain with a simple maintenance coat. If you want to switch to a semi-transparent stain, you’ll need to allow your solid stain to weather and then either sand or strip the finish off. Once the wood is bare, you can use a semi-transparent stain hopefully with less frustration and work. The other option if you don’t want the maintenance is to replace the wood with a composite type decking material or a concrete patio, but obviously these are much more expensive up front.

  26. Mark Gershovich says:

    Last time I stained my deck I used Geco solid stain product. Unfortunately, Geco discontinued this solid stain product. It’s acrylic based and lasted several years. It’s peeling in places and wore out. I really don’t want to strip the deck. I did pressure washed it and now need an advice what other prep steps I need to take and what solid stain product would work the best in my situation. I live in Seattle area. I realize I am stuck with solid stain but hope I can find some product I can reapply more easily. Thank you.

  27. Stephanie says:

    Can I use semi transparent stain over aged and faded Thompson tinted water sealer?
    If so, what steps do I need to take?

  28. Larry Neff says:

    I have a nine year old deck that my Son helped me out when I was sick by spraying my deck with way to much stain. It has turned black and now must be stripped,My question is if i STRIP IT now and can’t beat cold weather would it be OK to wait until spring to stain it.
    Thanks Larry

  29. Diane says:

    My deck kept peeling and slivers were rising. So 50 feet of outdoor carpet on deck and top railing. Every year I cover it with a few tarps with zip lock ties on openings and bungle them to bottom of deck for the winter. Its been 3 years and the carpet is still great.

  30. Julie says:

    I just added on to my deck to double its size, so now half the deck is dark brown (a semi was used I believe, not a solid) and the new half is well, naked. I really want to have the whole deck look like a red wood. What is the best approach I should take here? Basically, I think I have to decide between solid and semi. From the comments here, I am hearing that once you go with a solid, you’re kind of committed to it unless you want to strip it off down the road. But I think it might be the only way to get one uniform color. What would you recommend? I know that the two products differ in several important ways, but frankly the most important thing for me right now is that it is all one uniform color. FYI, I did power wash the dark brown section of the deck and got most of the color off so the two different colors aren’t hugely different anymore. Your thoughts?

    • defyadmin says:

      Julie, you’re right, you need to decide whether to use a solid or not. Since you’ve got a semi-transparent already, it may be best to continue on with that. Once you go with a solid, you’re pretty much stuck with it. If the previous product is totally gone, you may not need to strip. If there’s any of the previous stain remaining, to ensure you get a uniform color, you’ll want to make sure you totally strip it off, and bring the wood back to it’s natural state. Once you strip it, you’ll need to brighten it to neutralize the surface. Let it dry out, then it’s ready to stain. You may consider DEFY Extreme Wood Stain as it’s a long lasting, semi-transparent stain that comes in a redwood color (get a free sample here).

  31. TF says:

    We had a new cedar deck built. Floor decking is kiln dried, the rest is not. Contractor convinced me it would be fine to stain even though wood has only weathered a month. We got 4 or so straight days of rain had 2 or 3 drying days, they stained the vertical boards today with a white stain. He said he primed it first then sprayed and brushed in. He made mention that it wasn’t covering so he had to put 3 coats on. He said he has been staining decks for 16 years. Figured he might know what he was doing. Not sure if the 3 coats were 1 primer and 2 stain or if he primed and did 3 coats. At 5 a.m. the morning after he stained we got a heavy down pour of rain. I am scared to see what kind of mess we will have on our hands going forward. We are in Chicago area. Should we let the kiln dried floor deck weather through the winter. Forgot to mention they did do a light pressure washing with a cleaner/brightened. Help!

    • defyadmin says:

      TF, are the floor boards cedar, or pressure treated? If they are cedar, it may be a good idea to allow them to weather. Cedar is an oily wood type that frequently has trouble accepting stains. The more it weathers, the better your chances are that the stain will penetrate and hold up. If it’s pressure treated, even though it’s kiln dried, it still may be a good idea to allow the wood to weather. Even though the kiln dries out any moisture, the chemicals used in the pressure treatment process are still present and may prevent the wood from absorbing the stain sufficiently. If you choose to stain it now, it may still be ok, you just might have to do a maintenance coat sooner than if you allowed it to weather more.

  32. Sheri says:

    can you send free color samples of your semitransparent stain to gmail adresses?

  33. Jeff Hermann says:

    I have a three year old pressure treated deck that is about 12″ from the ground, built mostly over an old, crumbling, flagstone patio. It has been stained with Behr semi-transparent stain each of the past two years and is now peeling. I am in the process of using Defy stain stripper to get the stain off but after one application followed by power washing, I still have some spotty stain adhering. If I want to switch to a solid stain will I be ok just leaving the spotty stain? Is the rest of my procedure to finish stripping and power washing, apply Defy brightener, wash off, let it dry and then apply solid stain? Or will I need to sand or keep stripping? Finally, because the deck is so low to the ground, am I doomed to be doing this every year?

  34. KellyG says:

    I have a cedar deck that has not been touched since installed 14 years ago. I just cleaned it and I’m ready to do something with it. Question 1 do I really need to brighten after I cleaned with sodium percarbonate? Question 2 I need to repair a few spots with New cedar decking. Can I treat the entire deck soon or do I need to wait for the new boards to weather before completing my job? I am in Minnesota and my deck is partially in shade and partially in Sun. South west facing.

  35. Bette prouty says:

    We have had our deck stained and it peeled so,are following your suggestions. Is there a product we can use to get the wet look as a finish. Also, can a poyeurathane be used?
    Our decks look old and drab.

  36. Alan J Yurkovic says:

    Shame on me, I broke the big commandment and did too much. We have a cedar deck I let weather the first year then sanded most of it as the boards cupped slightly in places. Used a Mahogany stand, Benjamin Williams was recommended. Peeling is occurring about 60-70% and I want to sand it all this time just to get to the wood.

    Seems I should weather it again or just clear the sand dust away thoroughly as it soaks up moisture. My question is does grit size matter? I used 60 as I had once heard the harder the grit, the more porous the wood, and if I used a fine say 150 or more like 220+, the fine feeling is nice, but it may close the wood pores/surface. Does it matter? Thanks.

    And I did apply in the heat of the day, is very hard here in NJ to find a perfect set of 2-3 days unless you wait for fall. Spring I missed but had been wet a ton this year.

  37. Carol says:

    this is about a cedar octagon table, this year after the winter there are area’s on the table top and the seats that are pealing.. I did stain it last spring with Olympic deck, fence and siding stain @ sealer in one (in a light cedar tone) it looked good “then”. So, I tried to lightly sand it but I could see the stain was only coming off in some places, where it was pealing but lightly other places too. I thought the new coat of stain (same stuff) would cover it but now it looks horrible, light and dark everywhere. Should I sand it again? Is all the sanding going to ruin the cedar? Should I even stain it again or let it go, it’s in direct sun most of the day.

    • customerservice says:

      Carol, I would strip off the other stain and then apply the wood brightener. After the table dries, you are ready to apply our stain on there. Applying stripper will prevent you from sanding down the table. Be aware though the stain stripper is caustic and will kill plant life, and grass. If you have any other questions feel free to give customer service a call,

  38. Ritchard says:

    My deck is now two years old, pressure treated wood. We waited a year, then used DEFY brightener, cleaner, then Crystal Clear.

    Last year, it looked great. This year (Ohio winter), it still repels water, but the horizontal surfaces are a bit grey and there is green in some areas. (We have one covered area, and it looks like new)

    I’ve tried the Dawn/scrub brush routine, and it doesn’t remove the grey or the green.

    If I use the Deck Cleaner, will that work, or will it remove the stain? If I use the Brightener, same question.

    I have enough material left to do a coat on the horizontal surfaces, but don’t want to screw up what’s there, or cause a problem for myself down the road. I’d certainly rather clean and be done than start coating again after one year.

    • customerservice says:

      Ritchard, I would use the deck cleaner to remove the graying boards then brighten it and reapply another coat of stain.

  39. Sandy. Williams says:

    I waited 8 months to stain my new treated deck.applied the stain with a brush. 2 months later.my floor and top rails are peeling. Can I apply a new coat of stain just to these places?

  40. Amanda Willis says:

    I sanded my deck due to prior stain job gone wrong. It has been a very time consuming project and I’m running out of warm weather to stain the deck. The spindles are cedar and floor is ipe. I will stain with Defyl for hardwoods – walnut. Can I leave it unstained through the winter (midatlantic) – we have had a lot of rain in recent weeks preventing me from finishing the project and worried if I stain now there is too much moisture in the wood and if I leave it unstained through winter it will damage the wood. Any suggestions

    • customerservice says:

      Amanda, I would just clean and brighten the wood in the spring time. This will bring it make the wood more porous and ready to stain. The wood should be fine to weather through the winter.

  41. Cheryl says:

    We have a beautiful screen porch and deck 12 almost 12 years old. I know we should have maintain the deck and outside wood on the porch and it should have been restrained years ago. Believe it or not, until we finally had it pressure washed a couple years ago (didn’t get the stain on) and had it pressure washed again by a so called paint company this week, it wasn’t bad. Our original paint company was excellent. When our deck was built 12 years ago, the wood was lef to dry out and stained with a semi transparent with a slight tone of oak called natural. The painters then were excellent. (Water based stain). The painters we hired this time, ruined our deck and a section on the far end of our porch with a solid, unmatched water based stain. I could throw up. So I went online and picked a close match to my original stain and thought I would have them cover the mess they made. I learned pretty quickly that it would not adhere. I had them quit the semi except to use one coat on the outside of the porch and all the I stained lattice and skirt and legs of the project. Can I let the deck weather awhile (they put that ugly solid on the whole deck while I left them Awhile for a doctor’s appointment), and hope it thing peels of the one coat they put on, and then have it stripped, as it is pressure treated and can’t be sanded? Can I hope to salvage my once beautiful porch and deck? I am just sick and at seventy, I will have to hire it done.

    • defyadmin says:

      Cheryl, here are a few thoughts…Once you apply a solid color stain, you’re stuck with it. If you don’t like the color, the easiest solution is to stain over it with a solid color that you like. Solid color stains are not easy to remove as they’re similar to paint. To completely remove it, you’ll need to sand it off, which is not an easy project (pressure treated lumber can be sanded). I’m not sure why the solid stain that you picked didn’t adhere. If the solid that they originally used was an oil based product, and you bought a water-based product, that may be the problem. You can’t apply a water-based stain over top of an oil based stain, as it won’t adhere.

  42. My father was frustrated to see that the deck he built two years ago now looks dated. I think it’s because the deck stains are peeling. Thanks for mentioning that it’s a problem that’s becoming common, so I’ll tell him to hire a deck restoration company to fix that for him.

  43. Melanie says:

    We are about to install Mangaris on our rooftop deck. The Mangaris has been in the garage for 1 year now. It is new, just has some dust and dirt on it. I am wondering how I prep it before installing. Do I need to sand the wood, then apply cleaner and brightener? Thank you!

    • defyadmin says:

      Melanie, you may want to check with the manufacturer/distributor where you bought it to see what their recommendations are. Mangaris is an extremely dense hardwood that while beautiful, is going to be difficult for any stain to penetrate. Most stains will probably last a year or less on this type of wood.

  44. Kif says:

    We have a new huge cedar south facing deck 35’x26′ in N. Minnesota. Initially, I understood there was no need to stain since we liked the weathered color. I find out from our contractor our deck will only last 15 years if we don’t. Panicked, my husband and I started to brighten and clean the deck, we are 1/3 the way through (7 hours so far). We have little fuzzies on the cleaned area. I read getting a floor buffer would be good so the prep is done well. I read on your sight, that sanding is a bad idea making it too smooth and unable to absorb stain. First question is Yes or no on the buffer?

    After reading all these nightmares with staining ie. peeling, I am wondering if we should stain. It sounds like it is necessary to brighten and clean each time you stain (every other year in our case due to the south facing). Is it really going to extend our deck lifetime? This is a crazy amount of work and is seems like stain always flakes eventually and removing stain is worse than cleaning and brightening it.

    Should I just assume I need to clean and brighten and my deck will have a long life?

    • defyadmin says:

      Sanding is ok as long as you don’t use a fine grit. Fine grit will close the pores and make it tougher for stain to absorb. You should be fine to lightly sand with an 80 grit sandpaper to remove the areas with raised grain. The nice thing about cedar is that the natural oils in it preserve it and make it more resistant to decay and rot. With that being said, it won’t last forever, and staining it will help to preserve it. The downside of cedar is that the natural oils that preserve it will also make it difficult for wood stains to absorb. We actually have a product that’s designed to work better on oily cedar called DEFY Extreme Wood Stain for Hardwoods. This product will work better on both hardwoods, and oily softwoods like cedar. Maintenance coats typically don’t require cleaning and brightening. Just make sure the surface is clean and free of any dirt or debris. At the first sign of wear, just use a car wash brush to apply a light maintenance coat on the wood. Here’s a video to show how easy it is using this brush, it will make your project go much faster. Also, you can buy this brush here.

  45. Ryan Robertson says:

    Hi. I just stained my deck after removing deckover. I used a power washer for the bulk and then a belt sander and orbital sander for the parts that couldn’t get the paint off. I hand brushed the deck with stain but am noticing some areas look thin and it is where I had to use the orbital sander. I just stained it two days ago. Should I go over the areas that are thin with another coat?

    • defyadmin says:

      Ryan, if it’s been 2 days, you’ll want to hold off on applying more stain. If you didn’t get enough stain on, wait until the spring and give it a single maintenance coat. This stain is designed to be applied 2 coats within 20-30 minutes of each other. If you wait longer than that, you could risk peeling as the second coat may not absorb properly once the first coat has cured. When you do your maintenance coat, use a car wash brush as this will speed up the process and make it much easier. Watch this video to see it in action – https://youtu.be/Dm01Mb5LfOk

  46. Gary Gaffney says:

    Our house in Hackettstown NJ was built in 1999 We are the second owners having bought it in 2004. It already had a deck on the back of the house the whole width of the house and already stained. The house came with an above ground pool. In 2014 I did away with the aluminium ladder/deck to the pool and extended the original deck out to meet the pool a 20 X 15 project. The material was normal decking lumber 4×4 post, 2×4’s 2×6′ spindels etc etc…all materials were purchased the same day from the same store, Lowes. The addition remained natural wood for one year till my wife wanted it stained. I purchased on recomendation from Lowes, Olympic Rescue It Moderate Resoration. I stained the new addition and also the old original deck and another deck I built that holds a hot tub. Just so they all were the same color. In one year the decking of the addition started peeling. I mean huge whole peels the length of the whole plank. This has gone on ever since each year. the funny part is, the original decking and the hot tub decking have not peeled but they have the same stain. I have reached out to the manufacture of the stain, and sent them photos and information and they have no solution as to why its peeling. Can you help me, as we want to put the house up for sale but cant not leave the deck in this condition.

    • defyadmin says:

      Gary, if you’re just wanting to sell it, your best bet may be to simply apply another coat of the same product. Try to remove any peeling areas with a pressure washer, and then re-apply another coat. This type of product is usually hard to remove once it’s applied, and it’s a last resort for a deck that would otherwise be replaced. As a side note, we’ve seen a lot of problems with peeling on these “resurfacing” types of products.

  47. COLLEN WATSON says:



    • defyadmin says:

      Collen, you can use our Marine Seal Dock Cleaner to clean the dock, and Marine Seal Wood Dock Stain to seal and stain it. Both products are eco-friendly and are ideal for use on docks.

  48. Brian Jennings says:

    I’m less than a year removed from paying to have my deck stained with Farrell-Calhoun Permastain. This is the second time in 2 years we had to do this. First time began peeling in a few months. Store sales rep came out and said the deck wasn’t prepped properly. So, we did it again, this time using a sander that the paint store provided. They supplied the new paint. Now, here we are less than a year from the last restain and it’s peeling again. Sales rep just left my house and is now saying it’s wood “delamination”. He demonstrated this by picking up an edge where the solid stain has peeled and ripping a long piece off and showing me the bottom of the stain, claiming that what I was looking at was the actual top of the wood peeling away, remaining stuck to the stain. Is this even possible, that an extremely thin layer of wood would just peel away off the top? If not, could it be a product/project mis-match? This is the product the sales rep recommended to me.

    • defyadmin says:

      Brian, wood can delaminate but I would think that you would see the actual wood fibers attached to the stain. Excessive moisture can cause delamination. It looks like the product you used was a solid stain that was a acrylic/oil blend. If the humidity was high, or the temperatures significantly dropped before it cured, there could have been trapped moisture beneath, causing peeling to occur. I haven’t had any experience with this product but it could just be a poor performing product. Many solid stains perform poorly on horizontal surfaces. We do make a solid stain product that you could try called DEFY Extreme Solid Color Wood Stain. However, if the product that’s on the surface now is peeling, then it could potentially cause issues with our stain.

  49. Lisa Lisbon says:

    do you have a product for extremely weathered wood, such a conditioner, that should be applied before staining?

    • defyadmin says:

      Lisa, our DEFY Extreme Wood Stain is ideal for weathered wood, and no conditioner is needed. However, we do recommend cleaning and brightening the wood first, as this will help the stain last as long as possible.

  50. KM says:

    Can I apply a water-based stain over a deck that was previously stained with an oil-based stain? We have sanded the entire deck but there are still small areas that we can see the stain showing. Please, oh please tell me we can use a water-based stain!!!


    • defyadmin says:

      The areas with the oil based stain showing could give you problems down the road. You may try to sand those off a little better to avoid issues. Otherwise, yes you’re fine to use a water-based stain.

  51. William Borghese says:

    I used Olympic solid color oil stain on my deck 8 years ago. It is peeling badly so I had it power wased in hopes it would remove the stain down to the wood. Did not work. How can I remove the rest of the peeling stain so I can restain?

    • defyadmin says:

      William, unfortunately solid stain is more difficult to remove than semi-transparent stains. Your options are to either sand it off using a floor sander, or you could try using a paint stripper followed by power washing. If neither one of these options are appealing, you could restain it with something like DEFY Solid Color Wood Stain. It will hold up much better than the Olympic, and you wouldn’t have to sand or strip the old finish off.

  52. Ann Dales says:

    We had a guy replace our deck floor boards and top railings with cedar. We live in Nebraska and our deck faces south with no shade. He did not sand or prime it and painted/stained it a few days later with a Cabot oil based solid deck paint (Redwood color). The next morning it was all blistered! He said it was from the mist off our sprinkler system (which points away from the deck). He hand-sanded it where it blistered using a 60 grit and applied another coat (2 weeks ago). So far so good and we hav3 had heat, humidity and rain. A professional told us he guarantees that after a cold Winter and into Spring that the wood (since oil based solid does not penetrate) will crack and moisture will come up thru the cedar and it will be a disaster that will cost us a fortune to correct. Any suggestions? Thank you!

    • defyadmin says:

      Ann, it’s not that oil based stains don’t penetrate. Solid stains don’t penetrate. Most oil-based semi-transparent stains penetrate very well. Solid color stains are film-formers. They don’t soak into the wood, they lay on the surface. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing if you use a high quality product that is able to stand up to the elements. I can’t speak to whether the Cabot will last or not. I would wait and see what it looks like in the Spring. If it fails, you may want to take a look at DEFY Solid Color Wood Stain. We have 5 year test results that show it holds up extremely well.

  53. Judy Henry says:

    I have a new cedar deck and pergola that we are getting ready to stain. We plan to stain the railings, posts. and pergola a white solid stain The deck floor will be a dark semi-solid stain. I am nervous about the cedar bleeding black though the white stain. I have been told that I can primer (oil base) before staining with a latex stain to help with this. I am wondering if I am having to primer all of this before staining, would I be better off with painting? What will have a longer life, stain, or paint? Also, I read in a previous post that solid color stain will likely peel on horizontal surfaces…will priming before staining keep this from happening? Thanks for your help!

    • defyadmin says:

      Judy, applying a primer would be the safest method, especially on new cedar. This true whether you go with a solid white stain or a paint. DEFY Extreme Solid Wood Stain will give you the longest lifespan, and it does come in a white base that you wouldn’t have to tint. The “Bright White” base is what you want to buy. Cheaper solid stains will peel, especially on horizontal surfaces that get walked on. They are typically just “thin” house paint. If you go with a higher end product like DEFY, this won’t happen.

      • Judy Henry says:

        Thank you for your response. Do I need to primer all of the surfaces or just the horizontal ones. Our pergola is 15+ year old red cedar. Would it be advantageous to primer this also?

  54. Judy Henry says:

    We are in the process of remodeling our deck and pergola. We replaced the 4 X 4 post and railings with cedar this spring. We are getting ready to stain the post, railing, and pergola with a solid white stain. We will stain the floor with a dark semi-solid stain. The cedar is having black stains appear, which I think is normal. I am cleaning it now to be able to start staining next week. My question is will these black stains continue to appear and bleed through the solid white stain? I have found out that you can prime with an oil-based primer before applying the latex stain, to keep this from being an issue. Is this correct? Also, I saw in a previous post here that solid stains will most likely end up peeling when applied to a horizontal surface. If I used the primer before applying the stain, would it still have the problem with peeling? If I have to prime the wood before using the stain, would I be better off just painting? What has a longer lifespan, paint, or stain? Do you have any information, good or bad on using a white stain?? It isn’t very popular, and I am wondering if there is a reason for no one wanting to stain with white.

  55. Craig Campbell says:

    I need some help.
    I have 6 acacia wood deck chairs to stain. The first one did not come out good and I not sure how to make it different. The chairs are over a year old and came with a stain that peeled and had little to no penetration. I sanded the chair completely, Used Defy brightener (rinse, apply brightener, rinse again), dry to visible dryness (just barely), then same day applied Defy Extreme Stain for Hardwood (2 coats wet, within 20 mins, using a brush). The first coat absorbed great, the second coat was maybe too much to fully absorb and I had a few drips, but it overall looked really great. 3 days laying outside, and most of the surfaces facing the sky became very blotchy-dotted with dark marks that look almost like mold. Surfaces not facing the sky still look great. One unusual environmental factor is that the last few days have had a lot of smoke and ash from forest fires, and also fog.

    • defyadmin says:

      Craig, I’m guessing the smoke/ash played a part in this. I’ve never heard of dark marks that look like mold showing up after staining. My recommendation is to allow the stain to weather, and then either strip or clean it, and next time stain it inside of a garage or semi-enclosed area.

  56. Merle says:

    Bought a house with a deck three years ago. Best I can tell from cans in the basement, they used three different “cedar like” stains in the past First was an Olympic oil based product followed by an Ace and finally a Behr water based product. We have pressure washed the deck and removed 95% of old stains. My wife likes the “slightly mottled” look of the remaining stains on the 5/8″ treated boards–particularly the knots in the wood.

    I plan to lightly sand the deck to remove the slight fuzzing of the wood created from the pressure washing. Looking for advice on using your clear “stain” over the deck as the wood is bright after the pressure washing. Will the clear finish peel from the stain remaining on the knots and mottles? The deck sits 8″ off the ground on the west side of the house and gets sun Mid-afternoon/evening sun. Hoping to retain the current look of the deck after pressure washing.

    • defyadmin says:

      You should be fine to do this. As long as the stain isn’t over-applied it should never peel. Also, you’ll want to make sure the clear stain is able to absorb into the wood. It’s meant to penetrate the wood, rather than sit on top as a surface coating.

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